My dad was fond of distinctive flavors, like limburger cheese,
pickled eggs, and really dark chocolate. His favorite ice cream was black licorice.
I have fond memories of him with double-scooped licorice cones from Baskin
Robbins that left his clean-shaven face with a dark grey mustache and goatee.
You don’t see licorice ice cream in grocery stores; even Baskin Robbins hasn’t
carried it in years. But you can make it at home. Start by melting 4 ounces
chopped licorice candy in a saucepan with 2 cups water. In a medium bowl, whisk
4 egg yolks with 3/4 cup granulated sugar. Add 1 1/2 cups milk and 1/4 teaspoon
salt to saucepan; heat almost to boiling. Temper the egg mixture with the licorice
mixture before combining; strain. Stir in 1 1/2 cups heavy cream, then add 1 teaspoon vanilla and enough
black food coloring to make it dark grey. Cover and chill 4 hours before freezing
in ice cream maker.
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